Friday, July 6, 2012

Coptic stitch handout

I was asked for a copy of my Coptic stitch handout from this weekend.  Here is the link for what I threw together quickly.  I will try to post the actual handout after July Feast next weekend.


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Thursday, March 22, 2012

Rectangular Nordic Style Tunic Handout

Since I have posted a link to download the handout for the cap class I figured I should also post the link to download the Nordic Style tunic as well.

Rectangular Nordic Style Tunic Handout

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Viking Cap Handout

Here is the link to download the pdf of the handout for the Viking Women's Cap.  It has additional pages which give some ideas for decoration and also for sewing.

Viking Women' Cap Handout

Viking Women's Cap Construction

1.  Cut out the rectangle of fabric created by the two measurements.

2.  Fold the fabric in half matching the short ends. This will give you more or less a square of folded fabric.

3.  At this point, you need to decide whether you are making a Dublin style or Jorvik (York) style cap. 

The Dublin style cap has a sewn in peak (which occurs after the main body of the cap is sewn) where the Jorvik style cap has a curve cut and sewn into the crown of the cap as part of the construction of the main body of the cap.

4a.  If you choose to make the Jorvik style cap, which is more form fitting to the head, you will make this adjustment now before sewing the cap.

At the top fold of the cap down along one side, mark where the back of the head starts to curve downward and freehand draw a curve across this corner.  Sew the seam along this curve for the back seam of the cap.

Finish as shown below in step 5.

Jorvik style cap

Dublin style cap

4b.  For a Dublin style cap, using half-inch seams, sew down one of the open sides of the “square.  This will now become the back of the cap. 

Turn the cap right side out.  Make marks approximately two to three inches from the back seam along the top fold, and two to three inches down the side of the back seam.  Connect these two marks with a line and sew along this line to make your sewn peak.

5.  Roll hem the bottom and front edges of the cap.

6.  Attach ties at just below chin height on the sides.  Most extant pieces show the ties as having been attached not at the corners but at just below chin height.
7.  Voila! A finished cap.

Add embroidery or embellishment to your liking.


Heckett, Elizabeth Wincott. Viking Age Headcoverings from Dublin.  Dublin: Royal Irish Academy, 2003.

Ewing, Thor.  Viking Clothing.  Stroud, Gloucestershire: The History Press, 2007. 

Information regarding women’s headdress covered on pages 52-55 with descriptions from sagas matching finds in York, Dublin, and Lincoln.

Walton, Penelope.  Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fibre from 16-22 Coppergate.  London, England : Council for British Archaeology, 1989.

Priest-Dorman, Carolyn.  “Women’s Garb in Northern Europe, 450-1000 C.E.”  Compleat Anachronist #50, SCA, Inc. 1992.

Willadsen, Lisa.  “Embroidered Linen Headdress.”  2000.  Date accessed:

Thies, Jennifer.  “10th Cent. Viking silk cap”. 2006.  Date accessed: February 2012.

Priest-Dorman, Carolyn.  “Viking Embroidery Stitches and Motifs.” 1997.  Date accessed:  March 5, 2012.

Viking Women's Cap

One of the classes that I teach is a head covering for Viking women that has a basis in several finds in Dublin, Jorvik (York), and Lincoln.

Viking Woman’s Cap
By:  Mistress Muirghein inghean Rioghain Bean Ui Eamonn, CP

So, you’ve got this wonderful Viking outfit all set to wear and realize that you don’t have anything to wear on your head in the chill outside.  This is an easy cap made from  leftover pieces of linen, silk or wool.  Since this cap is made from a single rectangle of cloth it falls into the rectangular construction category for garment making.
Rectangular construction of garments goes back as far as cloth weaving.  It was a means of cutting the cloth, which took so long to weave, into garments while having very little waste cloth left over, if any.
You can find rectangular construction of garments in almost every culture.  This form of construction is not restricted to any one time period.  If you look throughout history you will find many instances of this method of constructing garments (i.e. Middle Eastern, Persian, Mongol, Viking, Rus, Anglo Saxon, Tudor, etc.).  Even today, there are countries where this form of constructing garments for their traditional  cultural "folk costumes" is still in use.
Based on textile finds in Dublin and Jorvik (York), we know that not only did women wear headcloths but they also had a simple basic cap.  Most of these finds were constructed of wool or silk, in a simple weave.  From the condition of the fronts of the caps, caused by pulling of the fabric in these areas, we can deduce that there were ties attached.  Some finds also had linen ribbon ties still attached.  They had rolled hems along the bottom and front edges of the fabric with a seam sewn down the back.
Where the Dublin caps had a sewn peak on the backs of the caps, the Jorvik caps had a curve to the top back of the cap.
To make this cap you will need: 
Fabric, measuring tape, yard stick, chalk or pencil, scissors
These are the measurements needed:
(1)  Circumference of the face (under the jawline and over the top of the head and back down)  _____  + 2 inches = __________
(2)  Circumference of Crown of head  _____/2 + 1 inch (seam allowance) = ____________
Now that we have our measurements we draw the pattern out.  Make sure you add in seam allowances before drawing pattern on the fabric.

Class Time

Just when I really need the time to get all of my handouts and class materials together for Gulf Wars, I get sent to a technical class for work.  I am hoping to have everything ready for all of my classes next week.

Rectangular Construction of Nordic Tunic
Viking Apron Dress Patterns
Viking Women's Cap
Discussion of Early Period Trousers
Patterning Thorsbjerg Trousers
Introduction to Naalbinding
Discussion of Complexity in Threaded-in Tabletweaving patterns

Wish me luck.

Thursday, January 19, 2012


I was recently asked for a pattern for a hat of naalbinding that I made for my husband. I mention this fact on this blog because I teach naalbinding in the Kingdom of Meridies.

So, first, I will put my handout for naalbinding here and then put the patterns up on my other blog "Muirghein's Moments" and link the two.